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Monocle’s third annual Restaurant Awards celebrate and elevate an endangered species: humble neighbourhood restaurants, smiley staff and simple service that often get lost in the fuss and froth of fine dining.
And the award for the Best restaurant in the World on the Restaurant Awards 2017 by Monocle magasine goes to…
Lisbon’s Bistro Cem Maneiras!
Spread across two floors of an art deco mansion in busy Bairro Alto, the white-walled spot serves painterly plates with Portuguese, Yugoslavian, Italian and French influences. Sarajevo-born chef Ljubomir Stanisic opened the 80-cover spot in 2010, a year after launching an inventive multi-course tasting menu at this place’s fancier sister joint, Restaurante 100 Maneiras. Yet it’s the informal feel and ever-changing cast of interesting and eccentric locals that are the crucial ingredient here.
Kick off with a thirst-quenching cocktail and moreish potato-skin crisps dipped in herby yoghurt. Next choose between the grilled octopus with zesty lime risotto and the pork tenderloin with creamy beetroot polenta. The doors are open everyday until 02.00 and there is no fussy maître d’ chivvying customers in and out. For that reason, we’re always happy to linger.
“In the beginning there was the word wish.
A wish made of a handful of ideas brought from Festival Lumière, in Canada, in which chef Ljubomir participated, coupled with others that were germinating, day after day, in the mind of the chef.
Then, the action.
In September 2010, in Chiado, the second space in Lisbon with the signature of 100 Maneiras was born: Bistro 100 Maneiras. “Bistrot”, some call it, with French accent.
However, it is not from France but from Ljubo’s roots that this Bistro comes – “clean and clear”, it means in Serbian. Clean and clear – the ideas, the food, the space.”
Let’s get to know it?